Island Peak Climbing 15 Days Itinerary

Early morning drive to the domestic terminal and scenic 30-minute flight to one of the world’s most adventurous airstrips, Lukla, at 2,860m. At the Tenzing-Hillary Airport, the mountaineers’ namesake, the runway slants down a steep hillside which ends at a precipitous cliff, an exciting introduction to the Khumbu region. Once we arrive, we are introduced to our trekking crew, pack up our gear and start our trek to Phakding. It winds down through pine and rhododendron woods, through traditional Sherpa villages of Chheplung and Ghat. You’ll also see Buddhist stupas and mani walls, adorned with sacred mantras, and prayer wheels that are spun as a form of prayer, all integral parts of the Sherpa way of life. Close to Ghat village, a Buddhist cremation site is a quiet reminder of the strong religious tradition which exists here in everyday life. This trail is along the Dudh Koshi River and the sound of crashing glacial waters is heard much of the way to the warm comforts of the lodges in Phakding.

This is one of the most picturesque days of the Everest trek, a gentle ascent through beautiful river valleys, followed by a steady climb to Namche Bazaar. We trace the Dudh Koshi River up to the mountains, passing through several prayer flag-draped suspension bridges. Some of these high wire crossings, one of which is an acrobatically suspended bridge above the roaring rapids, are emblematic of the Khumbu experience. Upon entering the Sagarmatha National Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site), permits will be checked at a checkpoint. The path then heads up through birch and conifer woodlands. When the weather is fine, most people who make the trek pause as they catch a view of Everest and Lhotse above the ridge. The trek to get to Namche is steep and arduous with about 600 metres of ascent but all the effort is rewarded when you reach the horseshoe-shaped mountain town where you can find plenty of teahouses, gear shops and bakeries. Namche Bazaar is the business and cultural hub of the Khumbu.

This is one of the most picturesque days of the Everest trek, a gentle ascent through beautiful river valleys, followed by a steady climb to Namche Bazaar. We trace the Dudh Koshi River up to the mountains, passing through several prayer flag-draped suspension bridges. Some of these high wire crossings, one of which is an acrobatically suspended bridge above the roaring rapids, are emblematic of the Khumbu experience. Upon entering the Sagarmatha National Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site), permits will be checked at a checkpoint. The path then heads up through birch and conifer woodlands. When the weather is fine, most people who make the trek pause as they catch a view of Everest and Lhotse above the ridge. The trek to get to Namche is steep and arduous with about 600 metres of ascent but all the effort is rewarded when you reach the horseshoe-shaped mountain town where you can find plenty of teahouses, gear shops and bakeries. Namche Bazaar is the business and cultural hub of the Khumbu.

The trail winds along the eastern side of the valley, overlooking Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and the iconic pyramid of Ama Dablam in the distance as you leave Namche. The path winds through rhododendron and juniper trees, crosses a few small bridges and winds through the yak-herding village of Phunki Tenga before a decent hike up to Tengboche. Tengboche Monastery is the biggest and most important gompa in the Khumbu region, located at a height of 3860m. It was established in 1916 and rebuilt after the fire in 1989 and is home to a community of Buddhist monks and host to the famous Mani Rimdu festival each autumn. The puja performed in the evening is highly evocative as monks chant prayers and the smoke of the incense wavers. This is one of the best spots in the whole Everest region, with the monastery ridge rising high above Ama Dablam, which rises steeply across the valley, and Everest peaks behind. Here nights are cold but the setting is magnificent.

The road from Tengboche leads down into the Imja Khola valley, then up through Pangboche, the Sherpa village of the highest permanently inhabited settlement in the Khumbu. The oldest monastery in the region is believed to be Pangboche Monastery where a relic is said to be a Yeti’s hand, which attracts people who are intrigued and skeptical. Outside Pangboche, the scenery changes radically. The trees open out and the ground is more open, wide moraines and rock pasture land take the place of the forest tracks of the lower valley. Near Shomare, the trail splits into two; one on the trail goes to Lobuche and the other to Dingboche. We climb steadily, into the wider, dryer Imja Valley. Dingboche, which is 4,410m in the sun-drenched bowl, is surrounded by stone walled fields where potatoes and barley are grown. The village is a trekking centre and lots of trekkers stay an additional day here. From Dingboche, the views of Lhotse, Island Peak and Makalu are amazing, particularly in the golden evening light.

The trail this day leads us further into the majestic terrain of the Khumbu where the last vegetation is hidden and rock, ice and sky await. The trail then leads to the Thukla Pass (4620m/Dughla) from Dingboche. A row of chortens (stone memorials) is a solemn reminder beneath the pass to climbers who have fallen on Everest and the surrounding peaks, including a large cairn to Scott Fischer and the 1996 Everest disaster. This is a very poignant place to stand and to reflect. The trail is on the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, a massive glacier flow slowly squeezing down the valley. It is a desolate, windy and lunar landscape – but a beautiful one. A group of teahouses, nestled in the cold, provide simple but comforting shelter in Lobuche. The height is significant at 4,940m with headaches and shortness of breath being common, rest is essential. Be sure to drink lots of water and acclimatize slowly tonight.

One of the most memorable days ever in trekking. The trail then follows the glacier moraine from Lobuche, and then down onto the sandy flats of Gorakshep, the final permanent settlement prior to Base Camp. We deposit packs and take a short rest and then head towards Everest Base Camp itself. The path passes over the rough terrain of the Khumbu Glacier, passing through numerous ice and moraine rubble and frozen lakes. The base camp, located at 5,364m, is a temporary city of tents in spring and autumn climbing seasons, with hundreds of climbers from all over the world, climbing the highest peak in the world. At the base of the Khumbu Icefall (one of the most treacherous routes on Everest), this is a staggering experience. Somersaulting seracs and crevasses rumble and move overhead. We soak it all up and celebrate this milestone and then come back to Gorakshep for the night. Sleeping at altitude is difficult, but most definitely worthwhile.

We get up early in the morning to climb up to the famous Kala Patthar (black rock peak) at a very early hour before sunrise to enjoy the best close up view of the mount Everest without any technical climbing. As the sunrise’s first pink light illuminates the Everest massif in early morning calm, it is a scene of unmatched splendour. This is the highest point of the trek at 5,550m and an important step for us personally. We then make our way back to Gorakshep for breakfast and cross below the side of Nuptse and through lateral moraines above the Imja Glacier, to Chhukung on our way southeast. Along the way, there are constantly changing views of Lhotse, Island Peak (Imja Tse) and the distant peak of Makalu on the eastern horizon. Surrounded by glaciated mountains and walls of ice and rock, Chhukung is a small and quiet settlement at 4,730m. Tonight it is about rest, fluid and mental preparation, tomorrow is when we start our Island Peak adventure in earnest.

Today is for resting and preparing for one of the most exciting targets for this whole trip,  ascending Island Peak. Guides will do a complete check of all gear in the morning and ensure that crampons, ice axes, harnesses, helmets, fixed ropes and high-altitude clothing are in good working order. A full briefing on the climbing, rope, cramponing on snow and ice and summit day procedures. Additionally, each member of the team is checked on acclimatisation and Island Peak is a high mountain climb at 6,189m, not to be taken lightly. A short acclimatization walk in the afternoon takes you to the Chhukung Ri viewpoint (around 5,550m), which will help the body acclimatize further. To the west is Ama Dablam, whose summit is not far from the nose, the huge south face of Lhotse looms above and to the east rises the obvious pyramid of Island Peak, all of which remind us that we are here, and there is much more to come. Get off to bed early tonight.

This walk is quite short but important, it is the transition from trekker to mountaineer to Island Peak Base Camp. The trail passes out of Chhukung and ascends onto the moraine of the Imja Glacier steadily through boulders and rocky ground, above the imposing face of Island Peak. Its evocative name was given to it because of a reconnaissance expedition by Eric Shipton in 1951 when from Dingboche it looked like an island of rock rising from a sea of glaciers. Base Camp is at about 5100m and is a flat rocky area protected from below under the lower ridges of the mountain. Team tents are set up, lines and gear are packed and everyone meets for a quick review before tomorrow’s summit push. Your guide will describe the route in detail, through the glacier, through the rocky head wall and into the famous fixed rope section to the corniced summit ridge. The most important tonight will be a warm meal, plenty of fluids and rest as much as possible due to the altitude. The alarm will go off before 12:00 a.m.

It is before midnight when the alarm goes off. A quick morning breakfast of hot drinks and energy-rich foods, we are then roped up to proceed with a headlamp across the glacier. Early hours are cold and quiet (apart from crampons on ice). The trail goes over the Imja glacier, then up a steep snow slope and rock face, requiring careful footwork. The end approach heads directly onto a narrow, exposed snow ridge, the crux of the climb, where there are vertiginous drops on either side. The peak (Island Peak, 6189m) is a reward for every effort made, panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Baruntse and all the Khumbu below in all directions. It’s the ultimate in mountaineering, in the real sense of the word. We celebrate and take pictures of the moment and then slowly go back down the ropes and cross over the glacier again, legs tired, hearts happy and spirits lifted, and all the way down to Chhukung. This is the day that marks the expedition.

So, the journey home starts as we begin our long trek with the Island Peak in the background. Every meter down the mountain, it’s a little sweet, the weight of the mountains is off my body, but it’s hard to leave the Khumbu behind. Walking back, we cross back over familiar terrain through Dingboche, and back down into the Imja Khola valley at Shomare, where the main path of the Everest trail branches off again. The path leads back into Pangboche then heads into the rhododendron woods that carpet the lower elevations. Colors grow darker, air gets thicker, breathing is easier and it becomes obvious to the body after weeks of adaptation. The white walls and red trims of the monastery of Tengboche reappear across the valley, the afternoon light casting a golden hue over them. It’s a different experience after the first time around, it’s the second time around, and it’s richer, it’s earned, and it’s a quiet pride that’s now back here. As you relax in your teahouse after a delicious meal, the monks’ prayer horns can be heard calling out across the valley.

The descent from Tengboche to Namche is a morning of beautiful contrasts, dropping steeply back into the lush, forested Dudh Koshi valley before climbing again to the familiar terraced slopes of Namche Bazaar. The trail passes through Phunki Tenga, where a riverside teahouse offers strong milk tea and a welcome rest beside the roaring river. From there, a sustained climb through juniper and birch forest brings you back to the bustling outpost of Namche. Returning to Namche after the high altitudes of the Khumbu feels like a return to civilization, the bakeries, the espresso, the warm showers, and the abundance of food are all luxuries to be savored after days above 5,000m. The afternoon is free to shop for souvenirs, recharge devices, or simply sit on a sunny terrace and gaze across the valley at peaks that now feel intimately familiar. Ama Dablam, unchanged and unimpressed, continues to gleam above it all.

The final day of trekking is long but charged with nostalgia. From Namche, the trail descends sharply back into the Dudh Koshi valley, passing through the now-familiar villages of Phakding, Ghat, and Chheplung. Prayer flags snap in the breeze over suspension bridges you crossed two weeks ago with fresh legs and wide eyes. The forests that seemed exotic at the start now feel like old friends. By afternoon, the distinctive red-roofed lodges of Lukla appear above a final set of stone steps. Arriving in Lukla marks the end of one of the world’s great mountain adventures. The town buzzes with trekkers in various states of elation, decompression, and celebration. Tonight, over a shared meal with your guides and porters, there is time for heartfelt thanks, the Sherpa team that carried loads, prepared meals, and kept you safe in one of the most formidable mountain environments on earth deserves more gratitude than words can offer. Tip your crew generously and celebrate properly.

The morning in Lukla carries the particular mix of relief and regret that only a long expedition can produce. After an early breakfast, we make our way to the Tenzing-Hillary Airport for the return flight to Kathmandu. Mountain weather is notoriously unpredictable and flights can be delayed or cancelled, patience is always wise in Lukla. When conditions allow, the 30-minute flight back over rippling green foothills and into the Kathmandu Valley is a final, joyful aerial overview of the landscape you have spent weeks traversing on foot. Landing in Tribhuvan International Airport, the noise, warmth, and chaos of Kathmandu feel both overwhelming and wonderfully welcoming. Transfer to your hotel, where a hot shower, a proper bed, and the city’s extraordinary food scene await. The Thamel district offers excellent Nepali, Tibetan, and international cuisine for a well-earned celebration dinner. You have trekked to Everest Base Camp, climbed Kala Patthar, and stood on the summit of Island Peak. That is no small thing.